Sasta Peski Jacket review: a Gore-Tex-free hiking layer made entirely of cotton?

Sasta Peski Jacket: first impressions 

If you've bought a waterproof jacket for hiking in the last few decades, you'll expect it to have at least two layers (a face fabric and waterproof membrane, usually Gore-Tex) and to be lightweight, sporty and swishy. The Sasta Peski Jacket is nothing like that.

Bucking the modern trend of high-performing, technical rain shells, Finnish brand Sasta has taken a considerably more old school and sustainable approach to weather protection with the Peski. Made with a single layer of Ventile cotton – that's the same stuff Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay wore on Everest – this jacket focuses on weave and construction instead of petrochemicals to shield you from the weather.

Ventile, which was developed in the 1930s to save the lives of Air Force personnel flying over the Atlantic in wartime England, is cotton that's so densely woven it blocks the wind and even keeps a light drizzle out because the yarns expand when they get wet. This jacket has added weather protection in the form of a big, adjustable peaked hood that stays put in the wind. That said, this material will not withstand a heavy rain.

If you're not worried about rain, however, one of the great benefits of choosing cotton over nylon or polyester is that it's extremely breathable, making it an excellent choice for vigorous hikes in cold weather. The two deep hand pockets hold plenty of small gear, but also double as underarm vents.

The high collar and slightly diagonal zipper make this jacket extremely stylish, and it's certainly at home around town as well as on the trail, while the low cut means more protection.

The brand has updated this jacket for sustainability by removing water repellent tapings, while Ventile fabric is now treated with Nordshield, a wood-based antimicrobial treatment that's free of heavy metals to cut down on the number of washes it needs.

At 540 grams for a women's small, it weighs considerably more than your typical rain coat, but that means no flapping in the wind. As we're accustomed to with Scandi brands, it might as well be priced by the gram.

If you need one really good waterproof jacket for hiking, this isn't it. But if you're looking for something more stylish and versatile that you can wear in the wilderness and around town without your outfit screaming "I'm a hiker!" and you don't need too much wet weather protection, boy is it stylish.

Sasta Peski Jacket: in the field 

I've tested a lot of waterproof jackets for Advnture and, while some (Montane Phase Lite) are better than others (Columbia Coral Ridge ODX), they're all ultimately pretty similar in terms of construction. This jacket is a whole different story, and I've been wearing the women's version for several months now – up mountains, along forested and coastal trails and in the city.

Here’s how it performed:

Sizing and fit 

I tested a European 36, which is essentially a small, otherwise known as my usual size. It's not baggy, but it has enough room that I can layer it over a light down jacket and comes down beneath my hips for good coverage. Compared to my other waterproof jackets, the cut is really more stylish and flattering, and that's in part down to the off-center and slightly diagonal front zip, but also the high collar and large hood.

Weatherproofing and breathability 

I should say that even though I'm testing this in the category of "waterproof jackets," the brand is careful to call it "weatherproof," which is more accurate. It doesn't have a waterproof membrane such as Gore-Tex or Petrichor, but instead relies on the weave of the cotton to keep out moisture and wind. Does it work?

The first time I wore it up a mountain, it was cold with a blustery mix of drizzle and light snow. I was so unsure that this jacket would provide enough protection that I'd packed my Arc'teryx Beta LT jacket as a backup. However, I never needed it, and while the rain doesn't actually bead on the fabric like it would if it were treated with DWR, it does stay out.

That said, I more recently got caught out around town in a heavier, more sustained rain and this jacket did indeed soak through, so it's really not built for that type of weather and I wouldn't bring it if I were expecting a lot of rain on a hike. I will say that one bonus point for the lack of membrane means it's not swishy, so I can enjoy a quieter hike in it.

The high collar and excellent hood provide great protection from the elements, and once I've zipped up and cinched the hood, it stays put even in a howling gale and just a small section of my face is exposed.

So it really shines in windproofing, but also in breathability. That mountain I mentioned is quite steep over about the first two miles, and it's rare that I don't have to strip down, even in cold weather. I wore this jacket over a down jacket and a synthetic top and never had to remove a layer. That's good old cotton for you.

Weight and storage

I probably shouldn't have to say that this is heavier than my synthetic waterproofs, by quite a big margin, but that said, I wouldn't classify it as heavy. It's still a single layer of fabric so it's not super bulky, but bigger than you'd want if you were carrying it in your daypack. While it doesn't stuff down as small as its peers, I can comfortably wear it all day, so if the weather is cool or cold, I wouldn't think twice about wearing it.

There are only two pockets on this jacket, and they're big, zipped hand pockets. They're plenty for any small gear I want to have to hand (basically, my phone and gloves) though I always like a chest pocket, but what I really like is that they're mesh-lined so they can double as vents.

Durability and value

Like a lot of gear from Scandi brands, the Peski is pricey, and great quality. It's so expensive that it's hard to imagine anyone buying this as their sole waterproof jacket, unless they live somewhere where rain really isn't an issue. But then again, if you want a jacket you can wear around town that looks good and provides decent weather protection and you have money to burn? It isn't the worst idea.

It's a beautifully high-quality jacket, with pristine construction and a thoughtful design. Again, what you'd expect from a Scandi brand. I'd be very surprised if I'm not still wearing this in 20 years and today, it still looks new despite me battling my way through a few blackberry bushes in it.

Saska Peski Jacket: the bottom line 

The Sasta Peski is a beautiful, if non-technical, jacket that can be worn for hiking if you're realistic about where you're going, and what conditions you might expect. It's versatile, high quality and breathable.

On the flip side, it's expensive, heavy and not waterproof, so if what you seek is something that can keep out a deluge and not weight you down, something like the Verglas Infinity Shell from fellow Scandi brand Helly Hansen might be a better bet.

• How Advnture tests products