Kentucky rock climbers triumph with "largest land acquisition of its kind ever" to protect world-class climbing spot

A male rock climber climbs a limestone rock face in the Red River Gorge, KY on a warm Fall day
The purchase of 718 acres is a triumph for climbers (Image credit: Marc Pagani Photography)

A non-profit climbing group in Kentucky has purchased a popular climbing spot in what's described as the "largest land acquisition of its kind" ever completed by a local US climbing organization.

The Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition (RRGCC) completed the deal last week, securing 718 acres of land that was part of the former Ashland Wildlife Management Area for $1.7 million. In January, we reported that a landowner had closed access to popular Red River Gorge crag The Zoo, which RRGCC said served as a "stark reminder" of why it's so important to secure land access for climbing.

The acquisition preserves a large swath of land, which includes popular climbing spots in the Cave Fork region, for future recreation and allows RRGCC along with The Access Fund to make a plan to expand access to climbing.

"This success highlights the powerful role the climbing community can play in broader conservation efforts, especially in the Appalachian Region," says Access Fund's Eastern Regional Director, Daniel Dunn.

"Rock climbing is a major draw in eastern Kentucky, and thanks to the RRGCC, the opportunities will continue to expand and the climbing environment will be protected."

A climbing cam placed in the rock for trad climbing

The acquisition preserves a large swath of land, which includes popular climbing spots in the Cave Fork region (Image credit: Getty Images)

Cave Fork Recreational Preserve is now RRGCC’s fourth major property at 582 acres, while Miller Fork Recreational Preserve expands to 418 acres and Pendergrass-Murr Recreational Preserve grows to 727 acres.

The property boasts over 14 miles of largely undeveloped cliff line with some world-class climbing spots including the Hell Creek drainage and there's now the opportunity for many more. Immediate plans include developing a new parking area and trailhead for easier access to the Miller Fork area.

The purchase also helps conserve vital habitats for threatened species such as Virginia big-eared bats, Indiana bats, and the Kentucky arrow darter.

"This species only occurs in the upper Kentucky River watershed and its populations are disconnected from each other, making protection of each population very important," says Lee Andrews, Field Supervisor at the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service's Kentucky Field Office.

The volunteer-based RRGCC, whose mission is to ensure open climbing access in the gorge, says it provided the $110,000 from its own reserves. The USFWS Kentucky Field Office and Kentucky Natural Lands Trust provided $350,000 from the Imperiled Bat Conservation Fund and the U.S. Forest Service contributed a further $600,000 in a partnership to create a 570-acre community forest as part of the acquisition.

The remainder of the funding was raised through private loans, donations and grants and the RRGCC is now more than half way to its goal of raising enough funds to repay its loans.


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Julia Clarke

Julia Clarke is a staff writer for Advnture.com and the author of the book Restorative Yoga for Beginners. She loves to explore mountains on foot, bike, skis and belay and then recover on the the yoga mat. Julia graduated with a degree in journalism in 2004 and spent eight years working as a radio presenter in Kansas City, Vermont, Boston and New York City before discovering the joys of the Rocky Mountains. She then detoured west to Colorado and enjoyed 11 years teaching yoga in Vail before returning to her hometown of Glasgow, Scotland in 2020 to focus on family and writing.