The future of unsupported climbing on Mount Everest is in jeopardy, under new rules banning climbing without a guide on the world’s tallest peak.
The change in access will begin in September alongside a major permit price increase, which will see fees jump by 36%.
One guide can manage a maximum of two climbers on Everest. Currently it's unclear whether Western guides will qualify in the rule or whether all climbers will need to use a sherpa.
Climbers were previously able to attempt the 20,032ft / 8,849m summit independently, paying companies for base camp accommodation, and use of the ladders and fixed ropes along the route.
Calls for an unsupported climbing ban have grown louder in recent years following the death of Hungarian climber Szilard Suhajda, who perished in 2023, attempting to tackle Mount Everest alone, without supplementary oxygen.
Fewer than 300 people have climbed Everest without oxygen and survived - less than 2% of all successful summits. Despite the evident danger, Nepal has not banned climbs without supplementary oxygen, as China has done for ascents on the Tibetan side of the mountain.
Just a handful of people have successfully soloed Mount Everest. Poland’s Piotr Krzyzowski was the last person to do so, completing the feat in an incredible double ascent of Everest and the nearby Lhotse mountain.
After summiting the 27,940ft / 8,516m Lhotse, Piotr decided against his original plan of returning to camp and headed instead toward Everest. Merely 48 hours later, he stood atop the world’s tallest mountain.
From September 2025, when the new regulations come into effect, ascents like Krzyzowski’s will no longer be possible.
The future of Jost Kobusch’s current ascent plans are also in question. The German aims to become the first person to summit Everest in winter, without support or supplemental oxygen. For the past few years, he’s been ascending and descending the mountain during winter, getting higher each time to acclimatize his body. Earlier this month, Jost broke his own record, climbing to 24,727ft / 7,537m before returning to camp, the highest he, or anyone else has ever gone alone without supplemental oxygen, in the winter season.
Under new regulations, Jost won’t be able to continue his challenge next winter.
Nepal is yet to clarify if any exceptions to the rule will be made.
Even with support, conditions atop the world’s tallest mountain are extremely treacherous.
Out of the 800 or so who attempt to climb it each year, roughly five to ten people lose their lives on Everest. Last year, eight people died on the mountain, after a deadly year in 2023, which saw 18 people perish.
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