British cancer survivor and veteran climbing partner become the first to summit Yawash Sar in Pakistan

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Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders, who've been climbing together for more than 40 years, are the first to conquer one of Pakistan's most fearsome mountains

Victor Saunders and Mick Fowler
(Image credit: Victor Saunders and Mick Fowler)

Two British climbing veterans have become the first people to summit Yawash Sar, a monstrous 19,6685ft / 6,000m peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram mountain range. Conquering the mountain's alpine-style ascent, Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders summited the impressive peak on September 14, after flying to the region in late August and trekking to establish a base camp.

After a safe descent and several days of hiking back to the road head, the pair sent word to the UK, confirming their success to their relieved and proud families.

“It was absolutely brilliant,” said 68-year-old Fowler. “The position, distinctive objective and continuously excellent climbing combined to make us feel this was one of the best ascents that we have done together.”

Struggling for good camping spots, the pair were forced to endure whtat they called an "excruciatingly uncomfortable" hanging bivvy sack in strong winds. Bivvy sacks are small, temporary shelters - particularly useful for strenuous climbs because of their light weight and ease of use. 

Victor Saunders and Yawash Sar

Victor Saunders stands in front of Yawash Sar (Image credit: Victor Saunders and Mick Fowler)

Climbing together for more than 40 years, Fowler and Saunders have made a number of iconic ascents, including the first successful attempt on the Himalayan Spatnik via the menacing Golden Pillar route. Inseparable throughout the 1980s, the legendary duo were reunited in 2016, ascending the treacherous north face of Seransk in the Indian Himalayas. 

More trips were planned, but had to be canceled after Fowler was diagnosed with cancer. 

“How did I cope with that? In a very pragmatic way, I’m a very pragmatic kind of person”, Fowler told Blacks Outdoors. Indeed, despite having to be fitted with a colostomy bag, after chemotherapy and radiotherapy, Fowler and 74-year-old Saunders headed back to the mountains just eight months later. 

Yawash Sar is the highest, and most impressive peak in the Khunjerab sub-range of Pakistan's Karakoram Mountain range. Only one ascent has been attempted before, by another British crew in 2022, who were forced to turn around after encountering loose rocks approaching the summit. 

Will Symons
Will Symons
Staff Writer

Will Symons developed his love of the outdoors as a student, exploring every inch of Sussex’s South Downs national park and wild swimming off the Brighton seafront. Now a Staff Writer for Advnture, Will previously worked as a freelance journalist and writer, covering everything from cricket to ancient history. Like most Advnture staff, Will’s weekends are rarely spent indoors, he can often be found hiking, wild swimming or playing cricket.  

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