“Quelle motivación!” shouts a ski patroller as he pulls up next to me on his snowmobile – what motivation!
I’m just cruising along on my touring skis at a moderate pace, but he’s not totally wrong – it was raining down in Verbier Village when I woke up this morning, which always makes it difficult to want to get out there. Then again, he could also be referring to the fact that there are literally dozens of perfectly good chairlifts and gondolas here at the Swiss resort that could sweep me up the mountain in minutes, but I’m choosing to self-power uphill which clearly requires a lot more time and effort.
He guesses correctly that I’m heading to Cabanne Mont Fort, a legendary mountain hut halfway up the mountain from Les Ruinettes. It's only 2.5 miles and gains just shy of a thousand feet, but I’ve taken two years off ski touring and doubting my abilities.
“No problem, you’ll be there in 45 minutes,” he assures me, before casting a glance at my outfit – this adventure was unplanned so I’m overdressed in my Helly Hansen Kvitfjell Race Jacket instead of a softshell – and amends his prediction to closer to an hour before zooming off and leaving me to enjoy the trail in solitude once again.
Ski lifts have been turning at this iconic resort for nearly 80 years, transforming the idyllic pastoral valley into a glitzy world-class destination for alpine skiing. But I’m here on a retro-inspired ski trip to learn more about the history of the place and I figure, what’s more retro than powering yourself up the hill?
So this morning, I went into Ski Service and switched out my clunky alpine skis for a lightweight touring setup and loaded the Medran gondola in the drizzle. I had the cabin to myself, owing to the dodgy conditions, but by halfway through the six-minute ride the rain had given way to a light, steady snow and I was certain I’d made the right choice.
From the top, I set off on a trail marked only for cross-country skiing, touring and snowshoeing that gently traverses the mountain for about a mile for a welcoming warm-up. Once I reach Le Dahu restaurant, the climbing gets steeper and most of the elevation gain takes place in the second half. High above me, I can see the cabin perched on the mountain and soon, I’m breaking trail to reach it, huffing, puffing and feeling as alive as it’s possible to feel.
After a little over an hour (my ski patrol friend was right to be prudent ), I arrive at the hut which sits in splendid solitude at 8,000ft. It was constructed in 1925 by the Swiss Alpine Club as a stopover for mountaineers on their way up Mont Blanc and the Grand Combins from Les Chables before the lifts came along and trimmed miles off their route.
The skies are clearing and the surrounding views of those famous peaks come into view. Many legendary hiking trails pass right by here and even though Verbier doesn’t have the mountaineering history of other alpine resorts like Chamonix, it’s become a destination for hikers and trail runners in the summer who stop here at the hut for a quick coffee, a cheesy croute or even to spend the night and enjoy a hot shower.
I soak up the views, snap some photos and get my breath back. My Coros Pace 3 tells me I’ve burned over 1,300 calories – around four times my energy expenditure covering the same distance in downhill skiing the previous morning.
From here it would be easy to believe that I had the whole mountain to myself but for the occasional whoops of joy coming from a nearby ski run. When I've recovered, I rip the skins off my skis, take a few powder turns and before I know it I’m back on the busy piste and skiing down to Le Mouton Noir to meet the rest of my group and tuck into a mouth-watering Caesar salad.
Ski touring has, understandably, a reputation for being a backcountry activity, reserved only for those with grit, a dash of madness and hopefully an avalanche beacon. But at many resorts like Verbier, Mammoth, Sun Valley and almost everywhere in Colorado, you can ski uphill too, and there are some great reason to give it a go.
You might think taking over an hour to essentially hike up a mountain when lifts are available is nuts, but I’ve been touring at resorts for the last decade and it’s truly one of my favorite ways to enjoy winter – here are seven reasons why you should give it a try next time you’re at a resort like Verbier that allows uphill access.
1. Skip the lift lines
You know those images you see circulating on social media showing what looks like thousands of skiers snaking downhill in an endless logjam waiting for a lift? There’s nothing sweeter than skinning right by the mayhem and continuing uphill at your own pace. With a touring setup, you can even get your ski day started before the lifts open (if the mountain allows it and grooming operations have finished) and enjoy a head start on the snow with a side of sunrise.
2. Save money
I’ve saved thousands of dollars over the years by skipping the season pass and touring instead. A day of skiing here Verbier sets you back 87 Swiss Francs, which is just a fraction of what you’ll pay at some North American resorts. Once you’ve got passed the initial investment of your touring setup – you’ll need special skis, bindings, boots and skins – the mountain is yours for free and just because you might be going uphill on a touring-only route, there’s no reason why you can’t enjoy groomed pistes on the way down.
3. Get the place to yourself
A big part of the appeal of backcountry skiing is, undeniably, the solitude, but there’s plenty of peace and quiet to be found at most resorts when you’re not reliant on lifts. The day before my touring adventure, I rode the lifts and hit the pistes like everyone else and even though the Christmas crowds had cleared out, I still found myself on high alert dodging other skiers all day. On this day, besides my ski patroller friend and one snowshoer, I don’t see a single other human. Bliss.
4. Better conditions
There’s been a fair amount of new snow during my trip to Verbier, which is always welcome, but sharing it with thousands of other skiers has also meant lots of choppy snow and bumpy rides – not my favorite conditions. Using trails that are intended for uphillers means you’re sharing the snow with dozens of others at most, and you’ll often find better stashes that aren’t tracked out whether you’re seeking powder or corduroy.
5. Reduce your risk
Skiing in any shape or form is an inherently risky activity, and while some of my best experiences have taken place in the backcountry, I’m the first to admit that it can be really dangerous. Ski touring at a resort means your risk of avalanche is lower, if you pick your route wisely and if things do go wrong, even though it can feel like you’re a million miles from civilization, ski patrol is on hand to assist you.
Safety tips for ski touring at a resort
The first step is to check that the resort you’re visiting allows uphill access and find out any restrictions that apply. It’s vital that you adhere to any restrictions as being on the slopes during grooming operations is very dangerous.
Once you're on the hill, touring-only routes are best, but if you’re skinning up a piste, stay well to the side and make sure you’re visible to downhill skiers.
If you’re new to touring or unfamiliar with the mountain, consider hiring a guide. And if you’re going off-piste, make sure you have avalanche training, know how to read an avalanche forecast and carry the necessary equipment: a beacon, shovel and probe.
My favorite ski touring gear
As I proved in Verbier, you can go ski touring in gear you already own for the slopes, but it's a highly aerobic and sweaty pursuit, so if you want to do a lot of it, you'll want to pick your clothes carefully. For that reason, I tend to go with my best breathable and moisture-wicking gear. Here’s my best kit for touring in most conditions:
- Columbia Omni-Heat Midweight Baselayer Crew
- Columbia Omni-Heat Midweight Baselayer Tights
- Helly Hansen Alpine Socks Technical
- Helly Hansen Powderqueen Bib Pant
- Montane Fireball Lite Hooded Jacket
- Rab Khroma Tour Infinium gloves
